The personal care division of BASF has launched a novel form of encapsulated retinol, VitaGuard.
This technology is designed to effectively coat retinol in solid lipid particles — preventing its degradation and limiting its capacity to cause skin irritation.
To ensure that VitaGuard is an effective solution, BASF has conducted several in vitro and ex vivo studies, finding that the ingredient can improve retinol stability and enhance its bioavailability when applied through a cosmetic product.
Optimising retinol use in cosmetics
Retinol has been touted as a "miracle" anti-ageing ingredient within the beauty industry for some time now, and it is often found in a range of topical formulas to promote skin elasticity and hydration.
However, the ingredient can cause formulators significant challenges, as the molecule is prone to degradation through light and air exposure.
It has also been known to cause skin redness, irritation and even retinol burns if not used correctly.
Therefore, BASF wanted to create an encapsulation technology that could both improve the bioavailability of free retinol to the skin and prevent skin irritation when applied topically.
Human clinical study confirms VitaGuard's efficacy
To determine the efficacy of VitaGuard outside of a preclinical setting, BASF conducted a clinical study comparing free retinol and VitaGuard.
Researchers primarily assessed the anti-ageing potential of each molecule, as well as how they could impact the appearance of wrinkles, skin tone evenness and skin elasticity.
The randomised clinical study gave volunteers either VitaGuard A as a cream (0.1% retinol) or non-encapsulated retinol at the same concentration.
Through this trial, it was found that:
- VitaGuard A significantly reduced wrinkles compared with baseline measures
- Forehead wrinkle volume was reduced by 37% after 8 weeks of application
- VitaGuard improved skin elasticity significantly versus baseline
- Skin tone evenness was 15% better than baseline measures
Notably, all of the above effects were found to be more prounounced in those receiving VitaGuard A than those who got the same formulation containing non-encapsulated retinol.
These findings highlight the significance of VitaGuard as an ingredient solution for retinol-based skincare products.