However, reports Stefania Sala, Product Manager at Gnosis by Lesaffre, the active form of vitamin B9, folate (5-MTHF), can protect against premature skin ageing.
Consumers prefer 5-MTHF instead of B9 in skincare products, with the former showing an 85% annual growth rate compared with 5%, respectively.
UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis, generating reactive oxygen species that induce DNA damage, oxidative stress and the destruction of collagen and elastin fibres, leading to photoaging and hyperpigmentation.
Folate deficiency can accelerate skin ageing, disrupt DNA repair, reduce cellular turnover and increase vulnerability to oxidative stress.
Research shows that 5-MTHF protects skin by supporting normalised regeneration — a process that occurs every 27 to 30 days.
New skin evidence
New research substantiates Quatrefolic® 5-MTHF as a nutrient that supports healthy skin by protecting specific components in the skin’s structure against damage.
In a soon-to-be-published study, dermal fibroblasts were exposed to UVA irradiation to mimic sun exposure. Cells were supplemented with 5-MTHF (as Quatrefolic®) pre- or post-UVA irradiation.
In post-treatment, the cells were first exposed to UVA and then treated with 5-MTHF. The researchers evaluated 5-MTHF bioavailability and uptake, protection against UVA-induced mitochondrial ROS with cytometry, and DNA damage using a comet assay, as well as fibroblast proliferation efficacy.¹
The researchers found that 5-MTHF showed dose-dependent uptake by dermal fibroblasts that remained stable for up to 48 hours.
This prolonged intracellular presence is a critical aspect when it comes to promoting proper cellular repair. Additionally, 5-MTHF provided significant protection against UVA-induced oxidative stress by reducing cytosolic and mitochondrial ROS production, especially at higher concentrations.
Additionally, 5-MTHF supplementation improved fibroblast viability and DNA integrity.¹
Folate as Quatrefolic has also been shown to boost DNA repair and synthesis, which is necessary for healthy skin cell production and turnover, antioxidant activity and enhanced collagen production.
Thus, it contributes to skin health and protection against sun-induced damage. This unique 5-MTHF glucosamine salt may be marketed for its potential to promote fibroblast proliferation, enhance tissue repair and exert antioxidant effects.
Folic acid’s shortcomings
It is essential to note that folic acid, a synthetic form of vitamin B9, requires a significant conversion step into 5-MTHF before the body can properly utilise it.
For many people with a specific genetic polymorphism, this conversion step is impaired, thereby reducing the amount of 5-MTHF available from the original folic acid dose.
And even for those who do not have the genetic polymorphism, a clinical study confirmed that Quatrefolic (as HY-FOLIC®) is twice as bioavailable as folic acid, with significantly higher Cmax and AUCt values.²
Conclusion
Skin health is more than simply reducing wrinkles and preventing a dry, dull texture. Reducing the free radicals and inflammation generated by direct sun exposure helps to protect the skin’s structure and normalise its regeneration.
Women and men will gravitate towards products featuring 5-MTHF as their “go-to” solution to combat skin ageing.